Just like any traveler who has never been to Palawan, I didn't know what to expect before going there. I have heard of the noteworthy achievements of its local government (almost too mythical given the seemingly irreparable reputation that government officials have in the Philippines), the cleanliness of its capital Puerto Princesa and the ease of commuting around the city, the semi-exotic food that are distinct to this part of the country, and also the sights.
When I arrived at Puerto Princesa city, it all began to sink in: I over expected, over hoped, and over dreamed. In fact, none of what I imagined Palawan to be was close to what I saw in Palawan's capital city. I always imagined a first class city to be one with technologically advanced services and facilities, and with close-to-Manila likeness. Then again, I told myself, "Metro Manila's cities may look more fast paced than Palawan but they don't get as much acclaim as the areas here do." I was a bit confused, to be honest. Instead of completely disregarding possibilities, I left all the explaining to my best friend who is a local of Puerto Princesa.
Puerto Princesa
For a capital city, Puerto Princesa is far from congested. While there are areas where population is getting denser, it is still relatively spacious and easy to explore.
Businesses are simple as with the way of life. It can be a bit of a shocker to those who grew up in busy Manila or metropolises that follow a fast beat for there is much less pressure here--and it looks as though it won't change any time soon.
The hearsays about Puerto Princesa being a clean city is indisputable alright, but it's primarily because of the relatively easier to manage population. I have to give it to the local government though, they know how to instill discipline in their people; or is it thanks to the better placement of road signage that serve as constant reminders to the locals?
Manang at work.
And of course, her weavework.
During my stay in Palawan, I was lucky enough to have been hosted by my best friend and his family (Thanks, Apol!) and being assisted on the whole itinerary. I didn't get the chance to go to the Underground river, A UNESCO World Heritage site and is dubbed as the longest and most beautiful navigable subterranean river in the world, but I did have plenty of time experiencing the nightlife in Puerto Princesa.
On my third day, I woke up early and together with my other best friend, we set off for El Nido.
Don't forget to drop by the Crocodile Farm in Puerto Princesa to say hi to this cute ostrich. :)
El Nido: Getting there
The Municipality of El Nido or simply El Nido is just as famed as the more urbanized Puerto Princesa. It is approximately 238 kilometers to the northeast of the capital and normally takes five hours to reach by van.
While there is the option of taking a local plane to El Nido, a plane ticket can be quite costly. Backpackers and tourists in general have varied reactions towards the grueling fiver hour trip to El Nido. Some would say that five hours in a van is just too stressful for a trip that could easily be at least two hours shorter. A small but increasing number of tourists think otherwise. What others find taxing and draining, others consider a treat; this is primarily because of the scenery that unfolds throughout the ride. Sure, the road may be underdeveloped (lacking basic concrete, barren, rough, uneven, and at some point, hard to traverse), but the opportunity to see small communities, wildlife, and a glimpse of the distant sea is a completely different experience altogether. For those who wish to experience these it is more advisable to take the commuter bus called Sweetie (funny name, I know. But everyone in Palawan is familiar with this bus line so it's easy to get by).
While in El Nido
El Nido's charm isn't for everyone--it's either a hit or a miss. For those who look for vibrant energy and variety when travelling, El Nido may not be the most advisable place to visit. It's a simple municipality with even simpler residents. Here, life is following a turtle's pace: waking up mid morning for breakfast, setting out to sea before lunch, returning to shore before evening, and going to bed while there is still power at night. It's surreal to be in such a well-hidden place where life is unbelievably laidback and where you are greeted with smiles while taking a morning stroll around town.
In El Nido, you get to see the majesty of nature through its many islands, and diverse aquatic environments. It has been featured many times in international travel magazines and even by National Geographic as a top travel destination. Once you see past the five hours land travel from Puerto Princesa city to El Nido, you'll realize that the journey was well worth it.
A camel? A dinosaur? We kept arguing about this shape the whole time.
If only this rock island wasn't located in the middle of the ocean, it would've been an ideal jumping platform for an awesome dive!
Staying at El Nido for a night or two usually requires a bit of preparing as accommodations can be a bit hard to get by. For the budget traveler, there are local huts being rented out by community folks but be forewarned; the sea can be unforgiving and waves tend to ram structures to as high as the second floor of a standard sized building. Locals have also learned to accept travelers into their houses, often preparing a room for transient occupants--for a fee, of course. For those seeking more comfortable and better-equipped lodgings, there are low-rise hotels along the East wing of the town.
Activities
It doesn't take much to figure out what people go to El Nido for. It being an area so blessed with natural resources, travelers seek to explore its beauty. In general, Palawan is known for pristine bodies of water. a highly diverse wildlife, as well as caves and mountains. For those with wanderlust, it is a dream come true to be in such a rich environment as Palawan's El Nido. Here, activities can range from trekking to swimming, from kayaking to scuba diving, and of course, there's the usual island hopping.
Ever tried open sea kayaking?
splashthefrog from
TripAdvisor.com shares her take on El Nido:
"There's caves to swim though (sic), hidden lagoons to explore, unbelievable snorkling, paradise beaches, hammocks under coconut palms... And then the next few days as you head north you get the same stuff but with even better snorkling (great wrecks!) waterfalls, hot springs... and NO other tourists."
crismanila77 shared his experience as well:
"My family and I took Tour A & C. On our first day, we took Tour A, which brought us to the Small and Big Lagoon (Survivor Germany was filming there when we went!) and this was a brilliant tour. The trip included lunch, which was mostly seafood or chicken (your choice!). The next day, we opted for Tour C, which was the highlight of our El Nido trip. This brought us to Matinloc Island along the Tapiutan Strait. The snorkeling here was top-notch. Simply phenomenal; in fact, the best I've seen out there."
Upon arriving at El Nido, expect to be met by many agents offering boat rides to a set of islands. If you went to El Nido without doing basic research, El Nido is famous for its island hopping tours and it's only fair that you give at least Package A a shot as it is the most commonly availed package and serves as a good teaser to Packages B, C, and D.
Package A - ($33; PHP 1,600) - stops at Miniloc Island (Big and Small Lagoon), Twin Rocks, Shimizu Beach (our first stop!), Entalula Island and 7 Commandos Beach. (In no particular order; depends on the guides and traffic to the islands)
Package B - ($37; PHP 1,800) - visits Snake Island, Pinasil Islet, Inabuyutan, Codognon, and Ipil Beach. (In no particular order; depends on the guides and traffic to the islands)
Package C - ($46; PHP 2,200) - goes to Matinloc and Tapuitan Island (the location of the famed Secret Beach and Cagbantang Beach). (In no particular order; depends on the guides and traffic to the islands)
Package D - ($33; PHP 1,600) - stops at Cadlao Island, Sabang Beach, Pansandigan, Helicopter Island Beach. (In no particular order; depends on the guides and traffic to the islands)
We only got to do Package A as we were very much pressed for time but we were lucky enough to have shared the trip with a fun and bubbly group of travelers from overseas. If you have aquatic cases for your camera, it would be advisable that you dress your camera up before going on the island tours as there are many things worth taking photos of. It's a pity I didn't have one ready then and had to leave my Nikon on the boat.
Take your pick! These multipurpose bancas ferry travelers to the many islands of El Nido.
Aside from island hopping, the mountain located near the village you're staying can also be hiked and travelers often take an early morning trip up the mountain. We were told that it is still best to employ the services of a local guide who knows the way up and down the mountain as there had already been an incident in the past wherein a solitary traveler went up and was never heard from again.
Overall, it's safe to say that Palawan is a wonderful place to be if you crave for long days and short nights. There's a lot to do if you choose to be elsewhere aside from the capital. It's not hard to fall in love with as life in Palawan is laid back, it is easy to get around, and the people are nice and warm by nature. Just make sure that you bring an open mind and lots of room for curiosity though. It may take a while but the place grows on you, just let it sink in and try not to miss urban life too early.
